Saturday
The alarm went off at 9am. L hadn’t slept that well again but they needed to get up to have breakfast before checking out and making the ferry at 11am. They packed quickly and headed down to breakfast, which was the usual scrambled eggs, croissants, juice and a surprise addition of yoghurt and granola for A. More people checked into the hotel for the weekend and there was a group of 4 at breakfast. They then checked out and headed to the ferry (stopping by a pharmacy on the way), stopping for a gross coffee nearby where they didn’t know what a flat white was. They sat on the deck on the ferry listening to Talking Politics about Fanon on Colonialism and A explained Hobb’s theory to L and they chatted about Marxism and the idea of small vs. big states. A remembered all of the reading and thinking he’d done about this before. They both really enjoyed the podcast and it will probably become a fave going forward.
They arrived in Hvar 1h15 later and it was spitting with rain, but they decided to plough on to their B&B instead of stopping at a promenade cafe. The old town is beautiful with lots of steps, small alley ways, coves and white cobbled streets. There were a lot more tourists vs Split and they heard more English accents. They walked along the coast on a path that was resort – like to their apartment. They were greeted by their hosts who were super welcoming and gave them homemade lemonade and a long description of the house and surrounding area. L was really impressed by how clean the place was and loved the extra space compared to the hotel room. They had a quick turnaround before heading into town to have an explore, they went to backlane, the no.1 restaurant on Tripadvisor, which has amazing beer but didn’t serve food, they found it super hard to find anywhere still serving but they finally found a place open along the harbour where they bought sardines (not on the menu) after having spotted an old couple eating them a few tables over.
They loved the sardines, another fish to add to L’s new foods list, and then headed for a long hike up the mountain to the Napoleon fort. On the way we chatted about Marxism again and whether their end goal is a Utopia and it’s relation with the state. They only passed 2 girls on the entire route and ended up really high up after 40 minutes with a beautiful view of Hvar and the Pakleni islands. They chilled on the bench for a bit then headed back, which L found way harder and fell over (minor) and chatted about gender and sexuality. They walked back to the apartment through old town and freshened up before heading out for dinner walking along the seafront wearing shirt and dress. They arrived at a seafood restaurant recommended by their host where the guys that own it go out and catch the fish and octopus with their hands that day. It was busy but not touristy and they sat on the quiet street. There were only 6 things on the menu of which 4 had octopus. L ordered a seafood stew which ended up being a giant seabass not carved with potatoes and A had octopus risotto with chips on the side (despite the waitress telling them they had too much potato). They both had nice wine and made a list of the things they’d learned to love from each other e.g. seafood. Food was beautiful and they licked the plates clean. Then they headed to a bar and sat on the steps seats and listened to live music. A had a negroni and L a grapefruit G&T. They had to stop being cutesy because the waitress kept appearing and they felt awkward. They wandered home and headed to bed and slept late.
Coffee, Wine and Isolation 